Archive for December, 2009

Peking Glass Snuff

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Chinese Snuff Bottles – Sensations in Glass!

The first bottles we decided to buy that were not carved out of stone were made of glass. A huge range of glass bottles is to be found in all shapes and colours as well as a variety of manufacturing techniques.

Much more research is needed in order to date these bottles, but it is generally now agreed that glass and metal bottles were the earliest materials to be used. The problem is that glass has been used throughout the whole snuff bottle period right up to the present day.

The Chinese had little use for glass prior to the 17th century mainly because of their highly refined porcelain skills. They had no glass windows, favouring translucent paper. We are not sure if glass had been used centuries earlier in China but it was certainly introduced to them by Europeans in good time for snuff bottles.

Cameo Glass

They considered it as a valuable material and excelled in producing very fine works of art. Sometimes they treated it just like a stone and carved bottles out of a solid piece, otherwise they blew glass into moulds. Creating many unusual bottles ranging from transparent to white as backgrounds for colour overlay work. They were also able to control bubbles and by the addition of white flecks in the glass, colours such as these apt names suggest were created: – Sodden Snow, Camphor, and Snowflakes.

These bottles would then be dipped into bright coloured molten glass which later would be carved away to leave a cameo style of design. Some were dipped more than once to provide more than one coloured layer. Another technique was to apply to different areas of the bottle coloured molten blobs of glass. When these were carved the bottle could have up to as many as eight different colours cameo carved without increasing the number of layers.

Quality Counts

To a connoisseur, the number of colours or layers is not so very important, as it was not such a difficult process and a far softer material to carve than stone. What really should be valued is the quality of the carving and the overall design. Quite often a wonderfully carved and well-designed single colour overlay will be worth far more than a multicolour but poorly finished bottle.

To assess these bottles the colour is a consideration but great attention is paid just as with stone cameo carving, to the quality of the carving and especially to how well the background is finished close to the edge of the overlay. I have selected a ruby red single overlay as a good example to photograph. It shows a coiled `Chih Lung’ or dragon on both sides; also having mythological animal mask and mock ring handles on each shoulder 1750 – 1860. The dragon is a birth sign used rather like our zodiac signs. (See the photograph by clicking on the link at the end of this article).

There is a group of rather special, very finely worked overlay bottles known as the `Seal School’ because they always include a seal with the design. They were made later and date back from the second half of the 19th century.

Although these were made in the same way, the overlay is far more delicately carved and often even the thickness of the overlay is controlled to create shading. They normally used opaque white bottles as the background but some were also worked on other opaque colours. So far, I have never seen any on the clear or snowflake backgrounds. The photograph* shows a fine seal school bottle depicting a pair of cats at play with hovering insects amongst the flowers. On each side there is a bowl of fruit on a table and on the reverse is another scene of a drunken poet asleep in a garden. (*See the photograph by clicking on the link at the end of this article).

Layers of Glass

Apart from these overlay types there are many interesting mottled, swirling and colourful designs as well as the plain colour bottles, both uncarved and carved.

Many of these were quite complex in the way they were made: some were blown into moulds then finished by hand; others involved blowing a clear glass into a mould but then another layer was blown inside the first bottle. This layer was a thin colourful one, sandwiched by yet a third clear layer that was also blown in. When looking down at the neck of one of these bottles you can clearly see these three layers.

A variety of colours were successfully used, together with gold in the creation of snuff bottles. There is no doubt that their advanced knowledge acquired in firing porcelain, and how metallic oxides react, was put to good use in glass.

It has also been suggested that apart from mixing in metals, even small particles of precious gemstones such as Sapphires, Emeralds and Rubies were added to the molten glass.

Particular attention was given to the feel of the finished material, which was achieved by the type of polishing and even the weight was controlled by the addition of lead. With transparent bottles the inside could be controlled and made to appear crazed as these names suggest – Cracked Ice, Fish Net or Sea Spray.

Most of the really fine snuff bottles were made in the Imperial Workshop and other small glass works around Peking.

Stone Imitations

With such expertise the Chinese were able to make astounding imitations of other materials. There are many bottles that look and feel just like Jade, Aquamarine, Agate and other stones. There has been a view in the past that the Chinese made these as fakes with the intention to deceive. I am sure that this was not the case, as it was far too easy to find them out by careful inspection. Under magnification little holes on the surface that could not be polished out and tiny bubbles would be seen proving it must be glass. Lastly, glass unlike the stones can be scratched quite easily by steel.

The Chinese enjoyed making convincing imitations of highly valued minerals as a demonstration of their skill. One other mineral cleverly copied was Realgar with its bright red and yellow swirling colours, impossible to use because of a high arsenic content, so these copies would have caused a lot of intrigue.

Imperial Yellow

I have already mentioned that a wide range of colours was used for glass bottles. Such colours as sapphire blue and ruby red seem to have been the most popular of the earliest ones. However the Emperor Chien-Lung had a favourite colour that he decreed could only be used by the Imperial family and this was an opaque shade of yellow that is now referred to as `Imperial Yellow’.

Not all bottles of this colour really are Imperial as after his death this colour was available to all. A true `Imperial Yellow’ bottle must be one from his period and that can only be confirmed by the quality of the bottle and the carving. The `Imperial Yellow’ bottle pictured is well carved with an archaic design on both sides and is of the period 1736 – 1795. (See the photograph by clicking on the link at the end of this article).

Painted On The Inside

There remains one other area of glass bottles that really amazes everyone, these being the `Inside painted’ bottles. I have only a couple of examples in the collection, as I do not generally favour them as in my view they were never made for use. Once snuff was put into them the picture would not show up well, and the spoon would soon ruin the painting.

I should also explain that they did not restrict inside painting to glass but have applied the same techniques to Crystal and Chalcedony. The vast majority however are in specially designed glass bottles of a uniform shape.

What is remarkable is that through such a tiny hole in the neck they could paint on the inside landscapes, animals, calligraphy and even portraits. In order for the image to show through the glass the painting had to be done in reverse, all such fine details as the eyelashes for example, had to be painted first! All of these bottles are signed by the artist and many, some very attractive ones too, are still being made today.

For our own collection I felt that we should have one or two examples and I was lucky enough to buy the earliest known, dated and signed inside painted bottle by Kan Huan-Wen. He is one of the first well-known artist and highly respected. He has painted inside a rock crystal bottle, a scene of Buddhist Lions with a poem on the reverse. This bottle is signed and dated 1822. (See the photograph by clicking on the link at the end of this article).

Later we acquired another rock crystal example, and these two are the only inside painted bottles that we have. I think that this one is quite remarkable, as the interior space is so limited, it is hard to imagine how such a beautiful painting was achieved on one surface without completely ruining the other.

It originally would have been a rather poorly made double bottle. I do not know if the damaged half that has been removed was done so before it was painted, but I believe that it would have been. This was a very badly hollowed out bottle, of little value, before it was painted.

To my mind it is the fact that it was so poorly hollowed that makes the painting even more amazing! Have a look at the photograph. A continuous scene of fish amongst aquatic plants was painted in red, gold, pink; white, green and grisaille dated 1896 and signed Chu Chan-Yuan. This crystal has a natural flaw in the stone that adds to the under water appeal of this picture. (See the photograph by clicking on the link at the end of this article).

Most of the glass bottles purposely made for inside painting are much larger than this crystal one. Some of the paintings achieved however are hard to believe possible. There are even portraits that are so well done that they just look as good as black and white photographs!

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Chinese Clam Broth Russet Peking Glass Snuff Bottle


Chinese Clam Broth Russet Peking Glass Snuff Bottle


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Peking Glass Carved Dragon&Phoenix Pattern Snuff Bottle


Peking Glass Carved Dragon&Phoenix Pattern Snuff Bottle


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Chinese Colorful Peking Glass Snuff Bottle


Chinese Colorful Peking Glass Snuff Bottle


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Chinese Peking Glass Painted Dragon Snuff Bottle


Chinese Peking Glass Painted Dragon Snuff Bottle


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Chinese Traditional Colorful Peking Glass Snuff Bottle


Chinese Traditional Colorful Peking Glass Snuff Bottle


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Rare Antique Peking Glass Snuff Bottle, Yellow Bat


Rare Antique Peking Glass Snuff Bottle, Yellow Bat


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Chinese Inside Hand Painted Peking Carved Glass Snuff Bottle:


Chinese Inside Hand Painted Peking Carved Glass Snuff Bottle:”Sun Zhong Shan”


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Yellow Peking Glass with Black Dragon Snuff Bottle


Yellow Peking Glass with Black Dragon Snuff Bottle


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Chinese Peking Red Glass Snuff Bottle


Chinese Peking Red Glass Snuff Bottle


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Old Chinese Peking Glass Carved Snuff Bottle~CALABASH SHAPE W/ FIGURE PLOWING


Old Chinese Peking Glass Carved Snuff Bottle~CALABASH SHAPE W/ FIGURE PLOWING


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SUIT OF CHINESE PEKING GLASS SNUFF BOTTLES #3228


SUIT OF CHINESE PEKING GLASS SNUFF BOTTLES #3228


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PEKING GLASS OVERLAY SNUFF BOTTLE


PEKING GLASS OVERLAY SNUFF BOTTLE


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PEKING GLASS ENAMEL SNUFF BOTTLE


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Blue Peking Glass Carved Katydid Pattern Snuff Bottle


Blue Peking Glass Carved Katydid Pattern Snuff Bottle


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White Peking Glass Painted Red Dragon Snuff Bottle


White Peking Glass Painted Red Dragon Snuff Bottle


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Green Peking Glass Carved Tortoise Pattern Snuff Bottle


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Peking Glass Carved Bird & Monkey Pattern Snuff Bottle


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Chinese Snuff Bottles, 2 Auction Catalogs 1979 + 1980


Chinese Snuff Bottles, 2 Auction Catalogs 1979 + 1980



Two auction catalogs featuring Chinese Snuff Bottles. They have 234 lots and 268 lots. Many of the lots are pictured, but not all. All have a description….


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Uses of Soapnut Shells – a Natural & Eco Friendly Detergent

Uses of Soapnut shells:

 

How Soapnuts clean your laundry? The process by which Soapnuts clean your clothes is naturally quite simple. The soapnut shells contains a natural saponin that works as a surfactant, making your water “wetter” and allowing it to penetrate the fibers of yours clothing, working away the dirt, keeping it in suspension in the water until it’s drained away, taking the dirt with it.

Soapnuts are ideal as natural and Eco-friendly detergent in the washing machine just put up 3 to 6 Soapnut shells (4 to 8 half shells), according your loads, into un-bleached cotton bag (provided free with each pack of “Sindhiya Washnuts” ) or in a sock. Tied tight and pop the bag in the washing machine with your clothes, these are suitable at any temperature, pre-wash or rinse cycles and on delicate fabrics. Shells can be used for more than one wash (up to 4 or more washes, according to your loads) on same day, discard any remains when they go dark brown and soggy.

What’s left is a load of clean clothes and nothing else! That’s the way laundry should be. Much like clean water, clean laundry should not contain toxic chemical residues. In fact, it’s more important to consider what laundry products do NOT contain then to look at what they do contain.

Wash the clothes:

The soapnut shells contains saponins (a natural detergent), when come into contact with water they make mild suds, soapnut shells are natural, organic, environmentally friendly a natural alternative of all kind of detergent, soaps, cleaners and shampoo. Soapnuts are ideal as a chemical free natural detergent in washing machines and laundries. Just put 4 to 8 soapnut shells in unbleached cotton bag/pouch, sock, handkerchief or similar, tie it up tightly and throw it in your washing machine with your clothes as soon as soapnut shells make contact with water (e.g. in your washing machine)the saponins dissolves and has the same effect as most normal detergent. You will not need to add any other detergent or fabric softener! The smell of the clothes washed with Soapnuts is absolutely natural – if you prefer scented laundry, simply sprinkle a few drops of ethereal oil on the bag of Soapnuts: Nice choices could be lavender, rose, orange, lemongrass or other your favorite – the variety of fragrances is nearly infinite. Soapnuts wash effectively between 30 and 60 degrees and same bag of same Soapnuts will be use 3 to 4 times for wash continues on same day. You will be wondered and amazed to see Soapnuts really works and they had cleaned your clothes as well as normal detergent.

 

Use as a bathing liquid soap or shampoo for allergic or sensitive skins: Soapnuts are 100% natural and gentle, these are so best for those who have sensitive skin or suffering from neurodermatitis and allergy in particular will benefit from the use of Soapnuts, as clothes which were cleaned with Soapnuts do not irritate the skin. Also allergic persons and people with sensitive skin may use Soapnuts for bathing instead normal soaps or medicated soaps which are contains with chemicals. For this purpose put 100 grams of soapnut shells in a pot with at least 1.5 litters of water cover the pot and put on stove for boil for at least 30 to 40 minutes. The boiling process extracts the saponins from the soapnut shells and combines with the water. Let allow then to cool till safe to handle than strain into appropriate container. Now your liquid soap is ready for use you can use it for bathing and as well as shampoo or all purpose for cleanings, pet’s washing soap or shampoo and many kinds of cleanings.

Use as a shampoo:

A Soap suds made of Soapnuts is a shampoo, which reliably and enduringly fights dandruff. A soapnut shampoo not only washes your hair but also cares for it. Especially allergic persons and people with a sensitive scalp should use soapnut suds to wash their hair: Because it is 100% natural and does not contain any kind of chemical additives, it will not irritate the scalp! Soapnut shampoo also best for lice and other kind of hair diseases. Women of south Asian countries are used this type of natural shampoo since stone ages. This kind of Soapnuts shampoo will make your hair strong, long, silky and healthy. Soapnuts shampoo does not damage your hair or skin although you use it regularly or rarely.

Uses of medicinal purposes:

Soap nuts especially are used medically as an expectorant, emetic, contraceptive and for treatment of excessive salivation, epilepsy, chlorosis and migraines. Studies show that saponin from Soapnuts inhibits tumor cell growth. Soapnuts are among the list of herbs and minerals in Ayurveda. They are a popular ingredient in Ayurvedic shampoos and cleaners. They are used in Ayurvedic medicine as a treatment for eczema, psoriasis and for removing freckles. Soapnuts have gentle insecticide properties and are traditionally used for removing lice from the scalp. Soapnuts are antimicrobial and are beneficial for septic system and gray water. Soapnuts are used in the remediation of contaminated soil.

Use as a liquid soap to wash your pets:

Wash your dog, cat, horse, monkey, bunny and other of your pets or working animals with a Sindhiya soapnut liquid suds – and thus without any chemicals.

 

Use as floor cleaners: A liquid soap made by Sindhiya soapnuts you may use also as your Floor cleaner, you may use it for bath, toilet cleanings also because it has power to fight against germs naturally!

All-purpose cleaning agent:

Better use such a decoction instead of usual chemical cleaning agents for your kitchen and bath room.
Jewellery cleaning: press half a lemon in some soapnuts decoction, soak in it a toothbrush and rub your jewellery. In South Asian countries, peple used Soapnuts to clean their Jewelleries, Precious stones and Gold and Precious ornoments since centuries.
Pesticides:

Moisten or water your house and garden plants with the already mentioned decoction and take advantage of the saponine agent to fight against harmful organisms such as aphids, without damaging your plant or poisoning your garden.
Mosquitoes repellent:

Wash or coat exposed parts of your body with the mentioned decoction, mosquitoes are repelled by the smell of saponine and will move away. Try it is to adopt it ! Your beloved kids may sleep with coat of Soapnut liquid, you may relax and don’t afraid about mosquitoes.

Throw a few soap nut shells in with your automatic dishwasher and watch how clean they get!!

Soapnuts are successfully used in dish-washers. They do not, however, have a scrubbing agent to them.
Bugs do not survive at 65°C washing temperature. Moreover, Saponine has a repressive effect on fungal and bacteria growth. Put 3 to 4 soapnuts in the little cotton bag, put this bag inside the dishwasher and launch it.

Using SoapNuts, you can make your own ultra-pure multipurpose cleaner.

 

Place some nut shells in the bag/sock (4 to 6 for soft water / 6 to 8 for hard water). Pull the string tight and tie it off. Then place the bag on top of your washing in the machine, with your clothes– that is it!

Each “set” of shells should be good for up to 4 wash cycles. (Dependent upon wash temperature and quality of shells.) Change the shells after 3 to 5 washes and use the old (used) shells to make liquid (see below). Indeed, for other purpose of cleaning.

You should be able to see in the below pics that fresh shells have a shiny inner surface. As if they were made from solid satin varnish! Or tasty toffee – so keep children away from them. This progressively changes to a matt beige as the saponin is released and the outer surface gets darker. Note that this is only really obvious when the shells have dried. You will find that they work better if multiply washes are done the same day. For that reason I keep the used nuts in the bag, in a small bottle, part filled with water.

Here is picture of shells, you may see the result after 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th wash by same load of shells …

New Shells                         1 Wash                              2 Washes                          3 Washes                            4 Wash

 

How to perform a SoapNuts

Soapnuts decoction: Bring 6-10 shells of Soapnuts to boil in 1 liter water during 10 minutes, leave it to cool down and screen the obtained liquid. The decoction is now ready for use ! To obtain a higher saponine-concentrate decoction of Soapnuts, use more SoapNut shells in the same water volume.

This concoction can also be made to do your laundry. Here’s how:

Boil 100 g of Soap Nuts in 12 cups (3L) of water for 30 minutes. The liquid you have is now a concentrated, chemical free detergent. The leftover shells can be placed in your compost. Use 3 Tbsp or 45 ml of this detergent with each load of laundry. This allows you to do approximately 60 loads of laundry.

Preservation of a Soapnuts decoction:

Soapnuts decoction must be kept in a cool place to assure a conservation of about ten days if citric acid or lemon juice or essential oil is added.
Soapnuts shells already used in a washing machine or a dishwasher, can be recycled by making a decoction.

SoapNuts More than just laundry soap…

The natural saponins found in SoapNuts are universal cleaning agents. Sure, they work great in the laundry, but did you know they are also traditionally used to clean skin and hair? In fact, the soap nut saponins work on everything from pets and children to washing fruits and vegetables. In ancient India, jewelers even used the soap to shine their precious metals and stones, giving them a beautiful natural luster.

With all the cleaning uses for SoapNuts, can you bath with them?

Remember! that you can create a liquid concoction to wash your hands, floors, counters, etc. but we have found that you can also bath with them.. Simple place a half a cup of your concoction in your hot bath water and enjoy yourself. Wash or soak and when you come out your body will have that clean feel to it not to mention a soft feel.

You can also use the Soapnuts by themselves. Throw in 4-5 Soapnuts and into the hot bath. Swish them around for a few minutes to get the saponins flowing and then step into the tub.

Hand Wash:

Even when the shells seem exhausted they still contain some saponin and you can use them to make a FREE hand wash.

Put your old shells, with any new little “broken off” pieces that are too small to put in the bag / sock, in a blender. Add a half pint (ish) of water and blend for a few seconds. The idea is to break all the shells into tiny bits so that they release as much “soap” as possible.

Simmer for a few minutes.

Cut the pipe of an old dispenser bottle so it reaches about half way down.

Allow the blend to settle and pour in to your dispenser, to below the pipe.

Give it a shake and pump away.

You will get a palm full of soapnut foam!

Excellent for general cleaning.

You can also add a drop of lemon juice as preservative and a nice smell.

Worried about watering your garden in a hot, dry summer? Soapnuts are totally organic and, as stated earlier, a mild insecticide. It is safe, even beneficial to put on your garden. Your washing machine uses about 50 litres (12 gallons!) of water per wash. Collect that waste and your watering problems are over. Unless you are an aphid!

By the way, all children’s clothes should be washed in these soap nuts to avoid exposing infants and children to the toxic chemicals found in commercial laundry products. And while you’re at it, why not save yourself from that exposure, too, by washing your own clothes with nature’s laundry soap?

 

What SoapNuts do NOT contain, include:

 

  • Foaming chemicals that, consumers into thinking their clothes are cleaner because there are “suds” in the wash. TRUTH: Suds have nothing to do with cleaning. They are chemical additives used to create the illusion of cleaning action.

  • Fragrance chemicals that make laundry “smell” clean. Most commercial laundry products use toxic, synthetic fragrance chemicals that are, in fact, well known to promote cancer and liver disorders. Laundry products are not really regulated by any single government agency, and there is currently no law banning the use of known cancer-causing chemicals in laundry products (much like with cosmetics).

  • Filler ingredients. Nearly all commercial laundry products are made with at least 50% filler ingredients to “bulk them up” and make them appear to deliver more value for the price. Consumers are mostly just buying the illusion of detergent, made mostly with filler.

You won’t find filler or toxic chemicals in SoapNuts. Just pure, natural saponins grown by a tree and engineered by nature. In our opinion, that’s where more of our products should ultimately come from. Wouldn’t it be great if shampoo also grew on trees?

Actually, it does!

 

An amazing Traditional use in Myanmar (Burma):

On the last day of Myanma year, in Myanmar, all of people use SoapNuts to wash their houses to remove all of dirt of last year from their houses, shopes and offices. They also wash and clean their hair with SoapNuts on the last day of Myanma year. They believe that if they wash and clean their hair, houses, offices and shopes by Soapnuts, no dirt of last year will come to in their lives during coming new year!!!

Sindhiya Enterprise Bangladesh is th leading producers of Eco friendly products in Bangladesh. They collect best and selected quality of Himalayan soapnuts export same worldwide.

 

How old is the Grand Canyon? and What natural resources are there?

I just need to know how old the Grand Canyon is.. and
What types of natural resources are present in the area

Writing in the journal Science, a group of scientists describes using features found in caves in the canyon’s walls to try to put a date on the natural wonder. The researchers studied structures known as mammillaries or “cave clouds” — carbonate deposits that form at or near the water table level, and dated the features using uranium-lead isotope dating techniques.

The new research suggests that the formation of the Grand Canyon, when the first cuts began to form in the rock, began at least 17 million years ago, making the canyon significantly older than previously thought. The canyon channel is thought to have been completely cut through by 5 or 6 million years ago.
The Grand Canyon is one of the seven natural wonders of the world and is largely contained in the Grand Canyon National Park – one of the first national parks in the United States. President Theodore Roosevelt was a major proponent of the Grand Canyon area, visiting on numerous occasions to hunt mountain lions and enjoy the breathtaking scenery.
The canyon, created by the Colorado River cutting a channel over millions of years, is about 277 miles (446 km) long, ranges in width from 4 to 18 miles (6 to 29 kilometers) and attains a depth of more than a mile (1,600 m). Nearly 2000 million years of the Earth’s history has been exposed as the Colorado River and its tributaries cut through layer after layer of sediment as the Colorado Plateaus have uplifted.
The Grand Canyon was first seen by a European in 1540, Garcia Lopez de Cardenas from Spain. The first scientific expedition to the canyon was led by U.S. Major John Wesely Powell in the late 1870s. Powell referred to the sedimentary rock units exposed in the canyon as “leaves in a great story book.” However, long before that, the area was inhabited by Native Americans who built settlements in the canyon walls


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$9.99


Antique Rare natural old snuff bottle 6451 FREE SHIPPING


Antique Rare natural old snuff bottle 6451 FREE SHIPPING


$9.99


Antique Rare natural old Tibet snuff bottle 6455 FREE SHIPPING


Antique Rare natural old Tibet snuff bottle 6455 FREE SHIPPING


$9.99



Porcelain Crane Vase

Porcelain Crane Vase Reviews


CHINESE RARE LARGE QING DYNASTY FIVE COLORS PORCELAIN HUNDREN CRANES VASE


CHINESE RARE LARGE QING DYNASTY FIVE COLORS PORCELAIN HUNDREN CRANES VASE


$650.00


ANTIQUE PORCELAIN PHOENIX CRANE VASE Chinese Ceramic


ANTIQUE PORCELAIN PHOENIX CRANE VASE Chinese Ceramic


$206.50


VINTAGE 12


VINTAGE 12″ ARTIST SIGNED JAPANESE/CHINESE BLUE CELADON PORCELAIN VASE-CRANES


$67.50


Chinese old rare famille rose porcelain  Crane vase


Chinese old rare famille rose porcelain Crane vase


$300.00


Pair Fine China Rose Porcelain gourd Carved Vase&crane


Pair Fine China Rose Porcelain gourd Carved Vase&crane


$186.00


China Rare Famille Rose Porcelain Crane Vase


China Rare Famille Rose Porcelain Crane Vase


$498.00


Chinese old famille rose porcelain crowned crane vase


Chinese old famille rose porcelain crowned crane vase


$450.00


Antique Chinese Color Porcelain with Cranes Vase


Antique Chinese Color Porcelain with Cranes Vase


$539.10


DECORATIVE CHINESE PORCELAIN VASE CRANE THEME


DECORATIVE CHINESE PORCELAIN VASE CRANE THEME


$47.99


China Famille Rose Porcelain Figure Crane Vase


China Famille Rose Porcelain Figure Crane Vase


$235.00


Porcelain Crane Vase


Crowned Cranes Vase Lamp in Antique Red


Crowned Cranes Vase Lamp in Antique Red


$199.00


JCO-X8604 Features: -Traditional Japanese cranes design.-Hand painted.-UL approved socket, power cord and light switch. Includes: -Includes base, shade and ceramic finial.-Imported, includes base, shade, harp and finial. Construction: -Vase construction: High temperature vitreous porcelain.-Base construction: Dark rosewood. Color/Finish: -Antique red finish.-Shade finish: Satin….

Porcelain Crane Vase

Feng Shui Wedding Tips For Newlyweds

There are a number of symbols and aromas, which can be used either in the southwest part of any room (the area of Love and Marriage), or in the bedroom of the newlyweds.

Let’s discuss the symbols first. The most important aspect is that any symbol that you use, needs to be in a pair. It can be anything: a pair of beautiful pillows, candleholders with candles, dolphin figurines, crystal eggs, etc. For love, classic feng shui typically uses a pair of mandarin ducks – orange ducks made of pottery, red jasper or other “earthly” materials. You can also use a pair of cranes. Both of these bird species represent undying love and faithfulness in the couple.

Another traditional love charm is a figurine of the Moon Fairy, who is considered the goddess of happiness, love and joy. You can also use ceramic, porcelain or crystal vases with flowers in them, which symbolize love, tenderness and passion.

A great talisman for enhancing romantic luck is “double luck”. It can be placed in the south-western sector of the house or put under the bed. Another good charm is the “double luck knot” – a knot made in a special way. Its “infinite” thread symbolizes an infinite luck.

The sector of Love and Marriage is “ruled” by the earth element. Therefore, feng shui wedding advice is to boost it using the “earth” or “fire” charms – different types of stones. You can make attractive compositions using semi-precious stones or crystals. Chinese feng shui schools give preference to jade eggs, crystal balls and statuettes made of stone. You can cleanse the stones using salt water or incense, prior to using them.

Colors that activate the sector of marriage are the shades of pink, yellow and brown (terra cotta, ocher, beige, and sand). You can hang red Chinese lanterns in the bedroom. Red or pink hearts (paired) are one of the most effective love charms; hearts of rose quartz are considered the best. Paintings of happy couples can be very good also. You can also hang wind chimes with pendants in the form of hearts – they will add romance to your interior.

If you choose to place images of hieroglyphs, the most appropriate would be “beauty” – a symbol of harmony indoors, and “love” – a symbol of happiness in personal relationships.

Following is a list of feng shui wedding scents that help to attract love and sympathy. The main point it to choose the scents that please both, you and your partner.

Orange – creates the atmosphere of serenity, ease, and confidence. Bergamot – relieves tension and enhances erotic appeal. Clove – gives confidence in success. Geranium – increases sexual appeal. Grapefruit – boosts emotional bond. Jasmine – helps shy people overcome their shyness. Ylang-Ylang – enhances intuition, frees, and awakens the senses. Ginger – enhances determination. Mandarin – helps achieve harmony. Juniper – creates a sense of novelty. Neroli – boosts sexuality and sensuality. Patchouli – awakens the primordial energy of the chakras and enhances sexuality. Rosemary – enriches feelings.

Play Bead Sculpture

Play Bead Sculpture


Educational Insights Playfoam


Educational Insights Playfoam


$9.99


Cross the texture of a crispy rice treat with the “mold-ability” of clay — and you’ve got PlayFoam, the lightweight foam sculpting beads that you can squish, stretch and shape into hundreds of amazing designs. PlayFoam never dries out and won’t stick to skin or other surfaces, so you can use it over and over again. Plus, it’s nontoxic and non-allergenic. The classic PlayFoam 6-Pack includes 6 Pla…

Play Bead Sculpture

Jewelry Making Tool Review: 4.8V Automatic Wire Twister

Wire-Sculpture Blog – Maggie Rowan

Jewelry Making Tool Review: 4.8V Automatic Wire Twister

One of my friends in high school played the harp, and you wouldn’t expect it (I sure didn’t when she challenged me to a thumb wrestle), but playing the harp gives you very strong fingers! Harpists have to practice plucking a myriad of strings precisely and just hard enough to get the right volume and tone. Well, me not being a harpist, I have weak little fingers, and they just don’t like twisting wire. I lost the thumb wrestling contest, but lucky for me, I found this large automatic wire twister in the office today, so I thought I’d share my thoughts on it with you!

I’m really excited to share my review of our Automatic Wire Twister, one of the many jewelry making tools we carry. We have both the small (3.6V) and large (4.8V) versions in our office. The small version spins easily at 200rpm, but the large version can reach up to 400rpm. Both wire twisters come with rechargeable batteries, and have an average recharge time of 4-6 hours. Although the small one works great, I have to say I think I like the bigger one better!

The small wire twister fits easily in my hand, is fairly light for a machine that’s equivalent to my husband’s power drill, and can even twist itself in half, allowing you to operate it two ways (see below).

However, I prefer the grip of the larger power drill for my jewelry making. It fits snugly in my hand and has good grip-holding texture. Here’s a picture of the larger drill:

This drill has a larger battery pack for longer battery life and more power (twice as much revolutionary power as the 3.6V), so the drill itself has a more traditional “power drill” silhouette. The larger battery barrel at the bottom lets me rest the drill on the desk when I stop working, and it stays put—the smaller wire twister has a nifty rotating handle, but it will roll to one side when you put it on the desk. This way, if I’m working on a delicate piece with my fingers, I know exactly where my twister is when I need it again—I don’t even have to take my eyes off my work. You can even let the twister stay put on the table if you keep your hand steady on it, and feed the wire straight into the bit.

The large 4.8V drill operates by squeezing the on/off switch with your forefinger, regardless of which hand is your dominant hand. This is easier for me than the smaller drill, which operates by pressing the switch with your thumb (or, if you’re left-handed, it might be with your forefinger). I think the drill is pretty easy to use, and I really like the way it feels in my hand!

One last feature of the large 4.8V wire twister I noticed when I picked it up to use it for the first time: like my husband’s power tool, the wire twister has a key to change the drill bit. This key is stored in a snap-in compartment in the base of the battery pack, so it’s always handy and you’ll never lose it! This is helpful if you’ve accumulated several wire twister heads and you like to switch between them, or if you have other jewelry making drill bits that you use for drilling holes in metal sheets, reaming beads, and even unscrewing screws around the house! In contrast, the smaller twister self-locks, so it doesn’t even need a key.

Both wire twisters operate in forward and reverse, so you can twist your wire whichever way you like. Both wire twisters are completely battery operated, so you don’t have to worry about tripping over cords while working on your jewelry, or wasting time searching for a free outlet. Both wire twisters also come with A/C chargers, so when you’re through with your twister, just let it charge overnight, and it’ll be ready to go in the morning.

One of my favorite things to do with a wire twister is take a piece of square wire and wrap it with a ring or bracelet. Simple as it sounds, I love the effect just one piece of twisted wire can add. I also like to make rosettes with twisted round wire and add beads to make elegant necklaces. What are some of your favorite wire twisting projects?

Well, that’s all the scoop I’ve got on our automatic power twisters. As far as our other jewelry making tools, I’ve got my eyes on a new tool kit we’re putting together to review next—I’ve heard it’s got a nice case, a whole set of good pliers, and a ruler. I love being able to measure my pieces as I go, so I love that a ruler might come with the set. As soon as we finalize the set, I’ll let you know all about it!

Summary

3.6V Small Automatic Wire Twister

  • Twists at 200rpm
  • Rotating handle for increased control
  • Thumb operates drill (left-handers may use forefinger instead)
  • Chuck is self-locking

 

4.8V Large Automatic Wire Twister

Twists at 400rpm

  • Flat base to rest on table
  • Forefinger-operated
  • Key operates chuck

Do you guys think the poem i wrote is good?

SOMEDAY

Dun dunda dun is all you hear
the piano playing

as she walks down the
aisle in her beaded silky

cream dress, holding
brightly colored scarlet roses

while the groom is waiting
for her at the altar in

his black tuxedo,
looking as sharp as a knife,

and the people in their
seats looking their best

like it’s their first prom;
as i look around i spot a

glass sculpture shiny
as the sun shinning

on metal.-Someday i
wish they will all be looking

at me thinking the same

I am not big on critiquing others’ work ,but this is not what I would call “good”. I do like the structure, but this poem is very cut and dry. No emotion or creativity involved.

Revision is key.

Netsuke Carving Display

Netsuke Carving Display Reviews


Hard Wood Stand For Netsuke & Carving Display (WS0035)


Hard Wood Stand For Netsuke & Carving Display (WS0035)


$20.00


Hard Wood Stand For Netsuke & Carving Display (WS0013)


Hard Wood Stand For Netsuke & Carving Display (WS0013)


$14.00


Wood Stand For Figurine, Netsuke Carving Display WS0011


Wood Stand For Figurine, Netsuke Carving Display WS0011


$15.00


Wood Stand For Figurine, Netsuke Carving Display WS0031


Wood Stand For Figurine, Netsuke Carving Display WS0031


$11.00


Wood Stand For Figurine, Netsuke Carving Display WS0040


Wood Stand For Figurine, Netsuke Carving Display WS0040


$11.00


Wood Stand For Figurine, Netsuke Carving Display WS0027


Wood Stand For Figurine, Netsuke Carving Display WS0027


$12.00


Wood Stand For Figurine, Netsuke Carving Display WS0035


Wood Stand For Figurine, Netsuke Carving Display WS0035


$20.00


Hard Wood Stand For Netsuke & Carving Display (WS0013)


Hard Wood Stand For Netsuke & Carving Display (WS0013)


$14.00


Netsuke Carving Display

Netsuke Carving Display

The Fascination of Japanese Lacquer Inro and Boxes

Japanese Lacquer Inro and Boxes are such incredibly beautiful works of art, particularly, pieces from the late 18th and early 19th century. I consider many of them to rate very highly, amongst the finest treasures of the World!

Without I hope being too technical, my intention is to use and to explain the terms and names, that are most commonly in use. This way readers who might be tempted to look at sale catalogues, will be more able to appreciate and understand the descriptions.

Inro Fashion

With the introduction of the Kimono, the Inro became one of the most important and essential fashion accessories used to carry on ones person such items as ink seals and medicines.

The Kimono had no pockets so the Inro was a clever container, consisting of a number of interlocking small separate sections, all held together on a silk cord and worn hanging from the sash tied at the waist. Soon it evolved from a purely functional item to one of very high fashion, and the designs and decoration gradually became richer, finer and even more lavish.

Netsuke & Ojime

A bead known as an ‘Ojime’ kept the various sections closed tight together. A toggle normally a small wood or ivory carving known as a ‘Netsuke’ would also be threaded on to the silk cord. The Netsuke (these are such superb little sculptures) would be pushed up under the sash (known as the `Obi’) that was tied round the waist, and would thus hold the Inro hanging below.

The silk cord would have had to be about 56 inches long, and was threaded in such a way, that about 3 to 4 inches of the cord would show below the ‘Obi’ to the ‘Ojime’ and Inro. Are you still with me? Under the Inro a many-looped special bow was formed, with normally six loops all of the same size. There would only be one knot and this would be hidden in the larger of the two cord holes, within the Netsuke. No loose ends would be visible.

Sometimes a Manju would be used instead of the Netsuke. These are rather like a thick pocket watch shaped carving, comprising two sections that open up. The lower piece has a central hole, and an eyelet for the cord is fixed inside the upper section. Once attached to the cord, the knot would remain hidden inside but unlike the Netsuke, the carving or decoration of a Manju is only two-dimensional.

The earliest ‘Ojime’ were simply a drilled bead, often of coral, as they had faith in a superstition that coral would disintegrate if near to poison. Quite valuable to them, if only it had been true, as they carried and took some very strange medicines. Later semiprecious stones and Ivory were used, some of them are beautifully carved, and there are also many very fine metal Ojime. Today collectors even specialise in just Ojime and they have become quite valuable. I do think it is rather a shame that so many of these items are now collected separately, when they really all belong together.

For many years there have been Netsuke collectors, and I can appreciate why, as they are complete artworks, as well as being wonderful handling pieces. Anyway, so many Netsuke collectors given time find they are tempted by Inro too! I always considered myself to be rather a specialist collector, but I would not be happy to own Inro, without Ojime or Netsuke, as they would seem so incomplete! I could not imagine being satisfied with only collecting the Ojime, beautiful as some of them are. Obviously these high prices have been the main reason for such specialisation!

Keeping Lacquer

Great care needs to be taken when handling Lacquer, as it can so easily be damaged by knocks. The most common cause occurs when the Inro is picked up, for if the Netsuke is allowed to swing and bump into the Inro, the Lacquer will dent and chip.

One should always try to hold the silk cord when inspecting Inro, rather than finger the Lacquer, as there is something in our perspiration that dulls the shine in time.

All Lacquer is best kept in a reasonably humid atmosphere avoiding sudden changes of temperature. This is not so difficult to arrange in this country, it is simply a matter of keeping a bowl of water in the same cabinet and avoiding the use of any hot spot lights.

Lacquer Boxes

Most of the early Boxes were made to keep things in, such as Suzuribako, these were fully fitted writing boxes that contained the ink block, water dropper, all the brushes and tools. Some were fitted with all the requirements for pastimes such as the Incense Game or the Shell Game, whilst others were designed as Picnic Sets.

A lot of Lacquer boxes were used as a means of packaging, for deliveries of documents, or sweet cakes and gifts.

The practice used to be that once filled with gifts, they were then simply wrapped in a material that was formed into a sack. This was then carried, over the shoulder, by the messenger and delivered. The recipient would later have all the Boxes returned, normally with a note and something little in them, as a gift to say thank you, and so these Boxes would be used over and over again.

They all are beautifully decorated and it is surprising to us that these Boxes were not, in those days, considered more valuable.

The Designs

Nearly all the designs were taken from early classical literature, paintings or woodblocks. Printed picture books had become very popular in the 17th century. They hardly ever had any text, but many of the illustrations were copied and used by Lacquer artists, in the same way as other craftsmen had done, such as enamellers, potters and metal workers. This is why we find various popular scenes recurring in Inro, such as the young herdsman playing the flute next to his resting ox, and Rosei’s dream is another subject frequently found.

The photograph (To see the photographs please click on the link at the end of this article) of an Inro depicting Rosei’s dream is a very fine example: it shows him partially hidden by his fan that is inlaid with a very thin piece of iridescent shell. At certain angles of light his face can clearly be seen. On the reverse, in superbly fine gold work, is the subject of his dream. He is dreaming of his ride in a stately court procession. This Inro is Signed Komo Kyuhaku.

Together with this Inro is a lacquer Ojime, and a wood Netsuke, carved as a kneeling man with a dagger. This intriguing Netsuke is signed Minko. By pulling gently on the sheath, the steel blade comes into view, creating quite an illusion.

I must apologise, as the silk cord is not tied in the correct fashion in both of the Inro photographed – one day I shall have to put this right!

Compositions in general favoured nature, animals, flowers, birds, insects, Mount Fuji, every day life, myths and legends. The first western visitors also fascinated the Japanese. The Portuguese were the first to arrive in 1542, followed soon by the Dutch, and all the arts were greatly influenced from the mid 16th century onwards. Dutchmen in particular are featured quite frequently in a wide range of Oriental art.

Amazing Skills

Many of the new Japanese techniques and most of the superb designs were originally to be found on the 14th and 15th century Boxes. The skills and control in decoration that were developed in the 18th and early 19th century, were based both on these earlier techniques and designs, but this was a period where new peaks were reached and breathtakingly beautiful Lacquer works have been created.

Several craftsmen were involved in the making of an Inro. First the very thin wood base would have been painstakingly made, with carefully selected wood, where all the knots had to be avoided. Conifers were preferred as this wood contained very little resin.

It would then have been handed to the next craftsman, a specialist at applying the numerous base layers of lacquer. Each layer would be extremely thin, and gradually finer and finer quality Lacquer was used, at least 30 layers were applied, so that no trace of the wood inside could any longer be visible. Only at this stage would the Lacquer artist responsible to design and create the many layers of decoration begin.

What does seem amazing to me, when one considers how the wood base was made, was the fact that they would have had to make allowances for the thickness of all these layers. Yet the Inro sections fit and slot into each other so perfectly, that one can hardly see any of the dividing lines once closed.

The Decoration

Often two artists would collaborate to decorate an Inro, one a Lacquer artist, the other could be a metal worker or even a Netsuke carver, providing wonderfully worked items, that would be inlaid in the Lacquer. Various materials have been used in this way such as precious metals, Pottery, Ivory, Shell, Horn and many others. Incidentally, there had to be very close collaboration, for each time an inlay in the design overlapped more than one section, it had to be made in two pieces to allow the Inro to open. Such Inro often have two signatures as both of the artists would sign.

The superb gold Inro photographed is decorated with exquisitely applied metal work, the scene being of an outside stage with two actors. One is an archer, about to fire his bow at the other on the reverse, who is crouching down protecting a monkey.

The face of the archer, although mostly viewed in profile, surprisingly, has his full-face details if viewed from the side.

The remarkable metal work extends over three of the Inro sections. In this particular case, both the Lacquer and the metal work were by the same artist and it is signed Noriyuki. (See the photograph by using the link at the end of this article).

This Inro has an attractive metal Ojime, and a good Ivory Netsuke, of two musicians. The Netsuke is signed Harumin.

The Artists

Signatures however, are not always a sure way of knowing who did the work. Often the signature was placed in honour, not as a forgery, of a great artist who originated the design such as the top early artists Ritsuo and Korin. Many very fine Lacquer works were not signed at all. Pieces that were commissioned by the Shogun or Daimyo, where only the highest of standards were acceptable, would not normally be signed, no matter how important the artist.

In 1868 the Meiji restoration meant the loss of such patrons, and Japan had opened up to the west. This meant that artists had to try to appeal to new clients, with an unknown western taste. Thank goodness, they were not prepared however, to give up certain of their traditional designs and techniques.

Family names passed down from one generation to another; the name of a particularly admired artist would be signed by all the following generations. They would also have non related students, who would be encouraged to use the same name, on work of a high enough standard, that is, until they were sufficiently proficient to become independent. One such family name was Koma, where the later very famous 19th century artist, Shibata Zeshin was taught.

There is a wonderful display of Inro by Zeshin at the V & A Museum, of a collection based on the twelve months of the year, which is well worth a visit. Each piece is superb, and a large variety of techniques can be seen all in one place!

The Great Schools

The finest artists were all talented members of schools, often under the supervision of a master, such as Koma and Kajikawa, and these two schools produced high quality Lacquer for over two hundred years. Other schools have become known for their special techniques. One is Somada that specialised in very fine Shell inlay; another is Shibayama who worked with more thickly encrusted materials such as Shell, Ivory, Soapstone, Pottery and many other materials. There was also Tsuishu Yosei who brilliantly carved red Lacquer, but the Shiomi Masanari School favoured the most difficult technique of all, known as Togadashi where the surface is kept perfectly flat.

Superb quality Lacquer work was not restricted to Inro, but there are also some magnificent boxes that were used, such as `Bunko’ for documents, `Fubako’ for letters and `Kogo’ incense boxes, originally used for cosmetics. Some of these Boxes also have a fitted tray, and sometimes a set of smaller boxes, that all fit perfectly inside. Many of these items including the already described writing, games and picnic boxes as well as pieces of furniture, can all be found just as finely decorated as Inro.

The little Kogo photographed is signed Kosentie and so beautifully decorated on the cover and sides, with continuous scenes of bamboo growing besides a running stream. The fitted tray has a similar scene and every other part is covered in tiny gold pieces, each placed by hand individually. So much richer a finish is achieved, than the more usual `Nashiji’, where fine gold is carefully sprinkled on! (See the photograph by using the link at the end of this article).

If you have a good eye for composition the appreciation of Lacquer work is hard to resist. On Inro they have very ingenious methods of design to make one wish to see the other side, such as the use of a rope that mysteriously disappears round the side, or a scroll that flows round the Inro.

When we began collecting, we were simply only buying pieces that we instinctively liked, and we have had no regrets. There is so much to learn however, once one becomes interested, especially these days when modern inro are being produced to a very high standard. Having seen the work of Unryuan, a very good artist born in 1952, his Inro command nearly as much as the earlier works. So many Inro these days have been very cleverly repaired and now that so much money is involved a lot of care when buying is needed.

I do hope that there will always be private collections and that Lacquer will not be confined to Museums, as it is such a fascinating hobby!